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SALVAGE AND JUNK CAR OR TRUCK WANTED !! CASH FOR JUNK CARS AUSTIN, TEXAS 512-789-2177
SALVAGE AND JUNK CAR OR TRUCK WANTED !! CASH FOR JUNK CARS AUSTIN, TEXAS 512-789-2177
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512-789-2177 BLOWN HEAD GASKET JUNK CAR BUYER AUSTIN
| Posted on February 21, 2016 at 10:57 AM |
comments (141)
|
Blown Head Gasket BLOWN HEAD GASKET JUNK CAR BUYER AUSTIN 512-789-2177 A head gasket is a gasket that sits between the engine block and cylinder head(s) in
an internal combustion engine.The gasket itself is a mechanical
seal that prevents leaks between two things joined under compression by
filling the space between them. It works
similarly to a washer on a bolt. By
preventing leaks, you ensure the best compression and you keep coolant from
leaking into the engine. The head gasket
in the engine has to take both hot and cold temperatures, back and forth, over
and over. Cracks and leaks are bound to
happen. The head gasket has a tough job
and is the weakest link of the chain of parts that keep the combustion engine
moving, so it’s more likely to fail than other parts. If a head gasket leaks
or blows, it’s usually not just one event that leads up to it. Either could happen during normal
driving. The heat of the engine can
gradually wear the gasket down with no major problems ever occurring. Until it leaks or blows, however, it’s hard
to know if the head gasket is running out of time. It’s not something you can see looking at the
engine; it’s way the heck in there and can’t be accessed without some major
disassembly. Other things may signal
your head gasket’s cry for help. You may
see coolant leak from below the exhaust, you may be losing coolant with no
visible leak or noticing bubbles in the
radiator or coolant overflow tank. The
engine may smoke (this will be white smoke; if not, keep looking because your
engine has another problem), the exhaust may smell sweet or the oil may look
like a rancid milkshake. So what to do if you
have a head gasket problem? It’s not a
cheap repair. Let’s face it, this thing
sits inside the engine. If it’s a minor
leak, you may be able to seal it with products available like Blue Devil or
K-Seal. Talk to a mechanic you trust to
determine whether this will do the trick.
Using these products could be as simple as pouring it in and letting it
move through the works as you drive or may require a drain and flush of the
cooling system—either option is far cheaper than replacing the gasket
itself. Be forewarned that products like
Blue Devil are meant to be permanent. Speaking
from personal experience, once it’s sealed, there’s no going back or getting it
out or working around it. That’s
generally the idea, but sometimes folks look at it as a temporary patch. |
CAR OVERHEATING AUSTIN, TX CALL THE CAR BUYER 512-789-2177
| Posted on December 27, 2015 at 11:57 AM |
comments (180)
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EVERONE loves a good road trip. You’re cruising along the open road, singing along with Tom Petty, free as a monkey escaped from the zoo-- life is great until you glance down at your cluster and notice your temperature gauge. You knew in theory that little needle could move, but this is the first time you’ve SEEN it happen. . . and it’s climbing. Panic-stricken, you pull over. The potential of being stranded is making your free monkey feel like a lame bunny in a forest full of wolves. What’s wrong with my car? The first step is to understand your cooling system. Cars are either liquid-cooled or air-cooled. Air-cooled is less common and generally older. You’re more than likely dealing with liquid-cooled. In a liquid-cooled system, a water pump circulates coolant through a thermostat that regulates the temperature of the coolant using a radiator to cool the coolant and hoses to carry coolant through the engine and heater core. Are you getting that coolant is a big deal? This is your first step. Pop the hood and look at your coolant reservoir. If it’s empty, fill it and check for leaks. DO NOT try to fill it while it’s hot and sure as heck don’t open the radiator cap when it’s hot. Still have coolant in there? What about fan? You need the engine running to check this. You don’t need to be a master tech; stick your hand in the open space and you should feel air moving. Be careful when checking, this is a running engine after all. The fan is necessary for temperature in town, but on the highway, not as much. Imagine the wind whipping through your hair—it does the same in the engine and cools it some by default. If it’s not so breezy under the hood, the fan itself or may be bad, the radiator switch may not be telling the fan to switch on or the fan belt could be broken (keep in mind, newer cars may not have a fan belt). Fan’s okay? And you’re sure there’s no puddle of coolant under the car? Okay, keep going. You could have a clogged radiator or your thermostat could be stuck. A clog means coolant can’t move through the engine, hence it can’t cool the system. A sticking thermostat allows coolant to move through the engine without being cooled, which doesn’t do you any good blazing down the highway at 70 mph. You may need some help to identify the offending component at this point and it’s not going to fix itself at the roadside, so now it’s time to move. Be nice as you go, your car is not feeling well. Turn off your air conditioner and crank up your heat. This will be less than amusing on your summer road trip through the New Mexico desert, but remember your cabin heater hijacks heat from the engine and will take some pressure off your car while you move toward help. Make doubly sure you have coolant in the reservoir and try to keep moving, avoiding stop and go traffic. Use your head here. Watch your temperature gauge and pay attention to how your car feels. Obviously, steam or smoke is a sign that you need to get off the road and probably out of and away from the car. If you’re not able to drive and keep the temperature down, get off the road and call a tow. Nobody likes an $80 tow but it’s much more palatable than a cracked engine block, a blown head gasket, warped cylinders—you get the idea. |